Abstract Time-averaged suspended sediment concentration profiles across the surfzone were measured in a large-scale three-dimensional movable bed laboratory facility (LSTF: Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility). Sediment suspension under two different types of breaking waves, spilling and plunging breakers, was investigated. The magnitudes and shapes of the concentration profiles varied substantially at different locations across the surf zone, reflecting the different intensities of breaking-induced turbulence. Sediment suspension at the energetic plunging breaker-line was much more active, resulting in nearly homogeneous concentration profiles throughout most of the water column, as compared to the reminder of the surf zone and at the spilling breaker-line. Four suspended sediment concentration models were examined based on the LSTF data, including the mixing turbulence length approach, segment eddy viscosity model, breaking-induced wave-energy dissipation approach, and a combined breaking and turbulence length model developed by this study. Neglecting the breaking-induced turbulence and subsequent sediment mixing, suspended sediment concentration models failed to predict the across-shore variations of the sediment suspension, especially at the plunging breaker-line. Wave-energy dissipation rate provided an accurate method for estimating the intensity of turbulence generated by wave breaking. By incorporating the breaking-induced turbulence, the combined breaking and turbulence length model reproduced the across-shore variation of sediment suspension in the surf zone. The combined model reproduced the measured time-averaged suspended sediment concentration profiles reasonably well across the surf zone.
Battjes, J. A., 1975. Modeling of turbulence in the surf zone. Proceedings of Symposium on Modeling Techniques, ASCE Press,1050-1061.
Battjes, J. A., 1988. Surf-zone dynamics. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 20: 257-293.
Battjes, J. A., Stive, M. J. F., 1985. Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 90: 9159-9167.
Beach, R. A., Sternberg, R. W., Johnson, R., 1992. A fiber optic sensor for monitoring suspended sediment. Marine Geology, 103:513-520.
Bosman, J. J., van der Velden, E. T. J. M., Hulsbergen, C. H., 1987.Sediment concentration measurements by transverse suction. Coastal Engineering, 11: 353-370.
Bouws, E. H., Rosenthal, G. W., Vincent, C. L., 1985. Similarity of the wind wave spectral in finite water depth, 1: spectral form.Journal of Geophysical Research, 90: 975-986.
Dally, W. R., Dean, R. G., Dalrymple, R. A., 1985. Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile. Journal of Geophysical Research, 90: 11,917-11,927.
Dean, R. G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surfzone. Proceedings of Conference on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, 208-214.
Dean, R. G., 1977. Equilibrium beach profile: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. Ocean Engineering Report No. 12, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, 45.
Hamilton, D. G., Ebersole, B. A., 2001. Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale laboratory facility. Coastal Engineering, 42: 199-218.
Hamilton, D. G., Ebersole, B. A., Smith, E. R., Wang, P., 2001. De
velopment of a large-scale laboratory facility for sediment transport research. Technical Report, ERDC/CHL TR-01-22, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 158.
Hallermeier, R. J., 1981. Terminal settling velocity of commonly occurring sand grains. Sedimentology, 28: 859-865.
Hay, A. E., Sheng, J., 1992. Vertical profiles of suspended sand concentration and size from multifrequency acoustic backscatter. Journal of Geophysical Research, 97: 15661-15677.
Kana, T. W., 1979. Suspended sediment in breaking waves. Technical Report No. 18-CRD. Coastal Research Division, Department of Geology, University of South Carolina, Columbia, South Carolina, 135.
Kraus, N. C., Dean, J. L., 1987. Longshore sediment transport rate distributions measured by trap. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments, 87. ASCE Press, 557-571.
Kraus, N. C., Larson, M., 2001. Mathematical model for rapid estimation of coastal inlet entrance channel infilling. Coastal Engineering Technical Note CETN-IV-35. U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 13.
Kriebel, D. L., Kraus, N. C., Larson, M., 1991. Engineering methods for predicting beach profile response. Proceedings of Coastal Sediment, 91, ASCE Press, 557-571.
Larson, M., Kraus, N. C., 1989. SBEACH: Numerical modeling for simulating storm-induced beach change-Report 1: empirical foundation and model development: Technical Report, CERC-89-9, Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army corps of Engineers, Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Missis
sippi, 267.
Larson, M., Kraus, N. C., 2001. Estimation of suspended sediment trapping ratio for channel infilling and bypassing. Coastal En- gineering Technical Note CETN-IV-34. U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 9.
Nielsen, P., 1979. Some basic concepts of wave sediment transport. Serial Paper 20, Institute of Hydrodynamic and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, 160.
Nielsen, P., 1984a. On the motion of suspended sediment particles. Journal of Geophysical Research, 89(C1): 616-626.
Nielsen, P., 1984b. Field measurements of suspended sediment concentrations
under waves. Coastal Engineering, 8: 51-73.
Nielsen, P., 1992. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport. Singapore: World Scientific, 324.
Osborne, P. O., Greenwood, B., 1993. Sediment suspension underwaves and currents: time scales and vertical structures. Sedimentology, 40: 599-622.
Smith, E. R., Wang, P., Ebersole, B. A., Zhang, J., 2009. Dependence of total longshore sediment transport rates on incident wave parameters and breaker type. Journal of Coastal Research, 25: 675-683.
Soulsby, R., 1997. Dynamics of marine sand. London: Thomas Telford, 272.
Sternberg, R. W., 1989. Chapter 5. Measuring sediment dynamics:C. Continuous suspended load sampler. In: Seymour, R. J. (ed).
Nearshore Sediment Transport. New York and London: Plenum Press, 95-102.
Sternberg, R. W., Shi, N. C., Downing, J. P., 1989. Chapter 11 Suspended sediment measurements: A Continuous measurements of suspended sediment. In: Seymour, R. J. (ed.). Nearshore Sediment Transport. New York and London: Plenum Press, 231-258.
Van Rijn, L. C., 1993. Principles of sediment transport in rivers, estuaries and coastal seas. The Netherlands: Aqua Publications, 831.
Van Rijn, L. C., 2007a. Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. I: Initiation of motion, bed roughness, and bed-load transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 133(6): 649-667.
Van Rijn, L. C., 2007b. Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. II: Suspended transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 133(6): 668-689.
Wang, P., Davis, R. A., 1998. A beach profile model for a barred coast-case study from Sand Key, west-central Florida. Journal of Coastal Research, 14(3): 981-991.
Wang, P., Smith, E. R., Ebersole, B. A., 2002a. Large-scale laboratory measurements of longshore sediment transport under spilling and plunging breakers. Journal of Coastal Research, 18: 118-135.
Wang, P., Ebersole, B. A., Smith, E. R., Johnson, B. D., 2002b. Temporal and spatial variations of surf-zone currents and suspended-sediment concentration. Coastal Engineering, 46: 175-211.
Wang, P., Ebersole, B. A., Smith, E. R., 2003. Beach profile evolution under plunging and spilling breakers. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 129(1): 41-46.
Wang, P., Kraus, N. C., 2004. Laboratory investigation of groin notching. Journal of Coastal Research (Special Issue), 33: 342-367.
Wikramanayake, P. N., Madsen, O. S., 1994a. Calculation of movable bed friction factors. Contract Report DRP-94-5, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 152.
Wikramanayake, P. N., Madsen, O. S., 1994b. Calculation of suspended sediment transport by combined wave-current flows.
Contract Report DRP-94-7, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi, 148.
Zampol, J. A., Waldorf, B. W., 1989. Chapter 5 Measuring sediment dynamics: A. Discrete sampling of bedload and suspended load. In: Seymour, R. J. (ed.). Nearshore Sediment Transport. New York and London: Plenum Press, 79-90.
Zampol, J. A., Inman, D. L., 1989. Chapter 11 Suspended sediment measurements: B. Discrete measurements of suspended sediment. In: Seymour, R. J. (ed.). Nearshore Sediment Transport. New York and London: Plenum Press, 259-272.